白雲仙谷 - Kaohsiung City
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★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 引用自
英國攝影家湯姆生1871台灣線性文化遺產
Jul 25. 2010 12:45
【英國攝影家湯姆生1871台灣線性文化遺產】湯姆生的南台灣內山風景照片──兼談禁向生活之美
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puumen2727
日照甲仙埔
【英國攝影家湯姆生1871台灣線性文化遺產】
湯姆生的南台灣內山風景照片──兼談禁向生活之美
西元1871年4月11日 ,英國攝影家湯姆生在牧師馬雅各醫生的帶領下,有了一趟危險、辛苦又精采的南台灣內山之行。在震撼之餘,回到英國的湯姆生陸續寫了四篇圖文並茂的報導,重複向世人宣揚這一處處有原始森林披覆、有流泉飛瀑傾瀉、有潔淨溪水穿流的南福爾摩沙內山美景;於是台灣的美更為具體、更為歐美人士側目了。
接近六龜里的山道景觀
在這些風景照片中,有一張湯姆生在《中國及其子民》圖鑑裡說明為「The view of the moutain-pass,taken near La-ko-li」的作品,王雅倫老師說:「幾乎出現在每一本湯姆生關於中國的攝影集內。」為了尋覓湯姆生這麼重視的照片的可能拍攝處,我三度與朋友在荖濃溪與六龜里間踏勘。或由於時隔一百三十餘年,地形地貌變化太大,所以暫無所得,唯仍不氣餒。
2006年4月12日,收到台北信鴿法國書店的湯姆生南福爾摩沙之行專輯《從地面到天空,台灣在飛耀之中》,集裡以玻璃版負片重新沖印的照片,大部分皆有湯姆生的「親題標題」,上述「接近六龜里的山道景觀」照片,在該集131頁亦有收錄,然而,照片上湯姆生的題字稍小,且部分題字正好寫在暗色景物中,要全部辨識可說不易。
甲仙埔與荖濃溪間的山溪
2006年10月17與18兩日,或收藏、或專研湯姆生照片的五位英、法兩國學者,在我的安排下,進行湯姆生南台灣之行的重點探訪,乃趁機就山道照片裡湯姆生的題字出現了「ka-sanpo」與「Laulong」兩個關鍵字之事做請教,倫敦威爾康圖書館影像收藏部主任威廉‧舒巴赫( William Schupbach )先生在幾經琢磨後,終於成功理出令人欣喜的題字內容:「A Mountain Stream between Ka-sanpo and Laulong,Formosa,1871」確定出這張精采的山溪照片,拍攝地點是在甲仙埔與荖濃兩聚落之間(甲仙埔,即今高雄縣甲仙鄉鄉治所在;荖濃,是同縣六龜郷荖濃本村。皆須以閩南語發音),並非「接近六龜里」處。而依甲仙至荖濃間山溪的樣貌與岩層的形態來看,該照片的拍攝地點,非白雲仙谷瀑布莫屬。白雲仙谷,因位於白雲山下而得名,位置是在甲仙鄉油礦溪的支流鹽桑仔坑之中段;由於鹽桑仔坑點火即然的瓦斯露頭頗多,所以早期名為「火空(孔)坑」。
迷人的白雲仙谷瀑布

在引領下,五位歐洲人一路充滿好奇來到白雲仙谷瀑布,照片中擁有大形羽狀裂葉且生命力強韌的山棕,其後代仍挺立於岩壁上,還頻頻對來客揮手哩!而幾經溪水沖切的河床,則呈現出更激揚的飛瀑與流泉──這處當時讓湯姆生與馬雅各忍不住停下腳步的美景,猶讓尋跡前來的歐洲探訪者,在賞覽流連中、在溪水的清涼裡,忘記了午餐時間已過多時,在幾經催促下才依依不捨出谷。
那麼,當時是哪個族群在這一地區居住呢?他們又是過著怎麼樣的生活且如何守護這塊土地而能美景處處呢?
來自玉井地區的大武壠社群
居住在這一地區的族群,清乾隆五十三(1788)年正月十九日,福康安在奏摺裡是稱為「四社番」;湯姆生則入境隨俗,以Pepohoans(平埔番,以閩南語發音)稱之;日治初期,伊能嘉矩為與南鄒四社區隔,是以「四社熟番」來稱呼;其後,為展現族群的平等與尊重,終有「四社平埔」或「四社平埔社群」的中性稱呼出現。這四社,指的是大武壠社、加茇社、蕭厘社與芒仔芒社,原居今台南縣玉井地區,清康熙六十(1721)年,生活區因官方清勦朱一貴反官黨羽遭受到「焚山烈澤,寮棚燬盡」的大破壞,為了尋覓桃園新境,乃爬山涉水陸續翻越阿里山山脈及其支脈烏山山系,來到今高雄縣的南仔仙溪與荖濃溪兩流域;由於在遷徙過程與社際間的運作,大武壠社皆是為首者,所以學者又以「大武壠社群」來稱呼。
禁向生活之美
 
那麼,大武壠社群是過著什麼樣的生活呢?《安平縣雜記》是這麼記載的:每年定舊曆三月十五日禁向,至九月十五日開向。禁向後男女各要專心農事,不能射獵、歌舞,亦不能婚嫁;至開向後,任從射獵、歌舞,婚嫁不妨。所謂「向」,《諸羅縣志》有「作法詛咒名向」的記載,解說相當扼要。更明白些來講,透過作法詛咒的儀式來禁止何事不可行,不遵循會有何後果?便叫「禁向」;透過作法儀式來解開(除)詛咒,則叫「開向」──這種防治少數害群之馬,並強化族人遵循意願的作法,可說讓我們見識到了大武壠社群生活運作的獨特之處。而經陸續查證《甲仙鄉志》民國40年至73年總計三十四個年度的月雨量表,與民國89年5月至95年12月甲仙攔河堰的日雨量表,確定舊曆(即農曆)的三月十五日至九月十四日屬雨期,九月十五日至隔年的三月十四日乃旱季。為慎重計,並向上追出光緒十二(1886)年,以鎮海軍為主力的開路撫番部隊,進入這一地區的四至九月是雨期;西元1871年4月13至17日(清同治十年二月二十四至二十八日),湯姆生進入這一地區的時段,亦確是溪流水流量不大且已搭建竹便橋的旱季。
在大武壠社群進入南仔仙溪與荖濃溪兩流域後,官方只管透過通事來收稅,幾無經營,所以水利設施極度缺乏,以旱作為主的社群先民在物資進出不易的情形下,為保五穀的不致匱乏,選擇雨期來種作,實是明智之舉;而排除「射獵、歌舞與婚嫁」等必率性盡興幾天幾夜方止的活動,以免耽誤了種作農事,更是展現出不可多得的自知之明。唯令人好奇的是:社群先民到底是經過了多少年的觀察與研究,才理出這一地區雨期與旱季間標上逗點的確切位置呢?
也真想不到:一直被認為「寒盡不知年」的台灣原住民,竟是這麼善於運用曆法!也足見:通行數千年的農民曆,確有奧妙之處。
永續經營的典範
如此知時知止、自知自制及用心生活的大武壠社群先民,在萬物勃發、草興木盛及食物鏈豐富的雨期,寧選擇禁獵,讓野生動物得以喘息、傳衍並成長,實乃不貪得無厭與永續經營之大智大慧的發揮與實踐。而在湯姆生的圖文報導裡,我驚奇發現:大武壠社群住民蓋屋是取用竹子、菅榛與茅草等生長快速的禾本科植物為建材;柴薪,也是以菅榛與細枯枝為主──這樣的作法讓我們見識到:為了守護野生動物的存活空間,大武壠社群住民對於自然資源可說是憐之又惜之,取用極為保守哩!
哦!有了這麼善於生活的住民,乃能有美景處處的好環境;亦唯有這麼善於生活的住民,才有福氣生活於處處美景的好環境吧!
Quoted from
British photographer Thomson 1871 Taiwan Linear Cultural Heritage
Jul 25. 2010 12:45
[British photographer Thomson 1871 Taiwan’s linear cultural heritage] Thomson’s photos of the landscape of the inner mountains of southern Taiwan ─ and talk about the beauty of the banned life
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Introduction

puumen2727
Rizhao Jiaxianpu
[British photographer Thomson 1871 Taiwan Linear Cultural Heritage]
Thomson's pictures of the inner mountains of southern Taiwan ─ and talk about the beauty of the banned life
On April 11, 1871, British photographer Tomson, under the leadership of Pastor Dr. Mayor Jacob, made a dangerous, hard and splendid trip to the inner mountains of southern Taiwan. After being shocked, Thomson returned to the United Kingdom and wrote four stories with pictures and texts, repeating to the world that this place is covered with primitive forests, with springs and waterfalls pouring, and clean streams flowing through South Former. The beauty of Shanai Mountain; therefore, the beauty of Taiwan is more specific and more focused by Europeans and Americans.
Mountain road close to Liuguili
Among these landscape photos, there is a work described by Tomson as "The view of the moutain-pass, taken near La-ko-li" in the illustrated book of "China and its People". Teacher Wang Yalun said: "Almost appeared in In every Thomson's collection of photos about China." In order to find the possible location of photos that Thomson attaches so much importance to, I and my friends visited the Nongxi Creek and Liuguili for the third time. Or because the terrain and landform have changed too much after more than 130 years, so there is no gain, but I am still not discouraged.
On April 12, 2006, I received a photo of the Thomson South Formosa trip to Taipei from Pigeon French Bookstore, "From the ground to the sky, Taiwan is flying", and the photos were reprinted with glass negatives. Most of them have Thomson's "pro-title". The above photo of "Mountain Landscape Close to Liuguili" is also included in the episode 131. However, the inscription on the photo is slightly smaller and some of the inscriptions are just written. In dark scenes, it is not easy to recognize them all.
Mountain stream between Jiaxianpu and Yinong Stream
On October 17 and 18, 2006, the five British and French scholars who collected or specialized in Thomson photos, under my arrangement, conducted a key visit to Thomson's trip to South Taiwan, but took the opportunity to take the mountain road In the photo, Thomson’s inscription appears the two keywords "ka-sanpo" and "Laulong". For consultation, Mr. William Schupbach, director of the image collection department of the Wellcome Library in London, after several reflections, Finally succeeded in extracting the content of the delightful inscription: "A Mountain Stream between Ka-sanpo and Laulong, Formosa, 1871" confirmed this splendid photo of the mountain stream, which was taken between the two settlements of Jiaxianpu and Laonong (Jiaxianpu, the hometown of Jiaxian Township in Kaohsiung County today; Lunong is the village of Liugui and Lunong in the same county. They must all be pronounced in Min Nan). It is not "close to Liuguili". Judging from the appearance of the mountains and creeks between Jiaxian and Yonong and the shape of the rock formations, the location of the photo was none other than the Baiyun Xiangu Waterfall. Baiyunxian Valley, named after being located under the Baiyun Mountain, is located in the middle of Yansangzikeng, a tributary of the oil mine in Jiaxian Township. Because there are many gas outcrops in Yansangzengkeng, the early name is "Huokong" (Hole) pit."
Charming Baiyunxian Valley Waterfall

Under the guidance, five Europeans came to the Baiyun Xiangu Waterfall with curiosity all the way. The photo has large-shaped feather-like cracked leaves and strong vitality of the mountain palm. Its descendants are still standing on the rock wall, and they wave frequently to visitors. ! The riverbed that has been rushed through the river shows a more exciting waterfall and spring-this beautiful scenery that made Thomson and Maya couldn't help but stop, letting the European visitors who came to track In the lingering viewing, in the coolness of the stream, when I forget that lunch time is too much, I have to give up the valley after several urgings.
So, which ethnic group lived in this area at that time? What kind of life do they live and how can they protect this land and have beautiful scenery everywhere?
Dawulong community from Yujing area
The ethnic group living in this area, on the 19th of the first month of the fifty-three (1788) year of the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, Fukang’an was called the "Four Clubs" in the memorial; Thomson entered the country to follow the customs, with Pepohoans (It is pronounced in Min Nan); in the early days of the Japanese occupation, Yineng Jiaju was separated from the Nanzou Si community, and was called "Si She Shu Fan"; thereafter, in order to show the equality and respect of ethnic groups, there was finally "Si She Ping" The neutral term "Pu" or "Sishe Pingpu Community" appears. These four clubs refer to the Dawulong, Jialong, Xiaoli and Mangzai mansions. They originally lived in the Yujing area of Tainan County in the 60th year of the Kangxi period (1721) in the Qing dynasty. Dang Yu suffered great damage from "burning the mountains and ruins, destroying the shacks". In order to find a new environment in Taoyuan, he climbed the mountains and waded through the Alishan Mountains and its branch Wushan Mountains, and came to Nanzi Xianxi and Kaohsiung County. The two watersheds of Yongnongxi; because of the migration process and the inter-community operation, the Dawulong Society is the leader, so the scholars call it the "Dawulong Community".
Forbidden to the beauty of life
 
So, what kind of life does the Dawulong community live? "Anping County Miscellaneous Records" is recorded in this way: the annual calendar is prohibited from March 15th to September 15th. After the ban, men and women must concentrate on farming, and can not shoot, sing and dance, nor get married. The so-called "Xiang", "Zhuluo County Chronicle" has a record of "famous practice curse", and the explanation is quite brief. To be more clear, it is not feasible to prohibit what is done through the ritual of curse of practice, and what are the consequences of not following? It’s called “Forbidden Direction”; it’s called “Open Direction” through the practice ritual to remove (remove) the curse – this kind of prevention and treatment of minority horses, and to strengthen the tribe’s practice of following the wishes, it can be said that we have seen the Dawulong community The uniqueness of life operation. After successively verifying the monthly rain gauges of the "Jiaxian Township" in the Republic of China from 40 to 73 years, and the daily rain gauges of the Jiaxian Barrage from May 1989 to December 95, the old calendar was determined. (That is, the lunar calendar) March 15 to September 14 is the rainy season, and September 15 to March 14 is the dry season. To be careful, and to chase up the Guangxu twelve (1886) year, the town navy as the main force opened the way to the Fufan troops. The rainy season entered the area from April to September; April 13-17, 1871 (Qing Tongzhi (February 24th to 28th of the decade), the period when Thomson entered this area was indeed the dry season when the stream flow was not large and the bamboo bridge was built.
After the Dawulong community entered the two basins of Nanzi Xianxi and Yannongxi, the official only collected taxes through common affairs, and had little business. Therefore, the water conservancy facilities were extremely scarce, and the drought-based community ancestors entered and exported materials. Under difficult circumstances, it is wise to choose the rainy season to plant crops in order to protect the grains from deprivation; and exclude activities such as "shooting, singing, dancing, and wedding" that must be done for a few days and nights, so as not to delay the planting. Doing farming shows even more rare self-knowledge. The only thing that is curious is: how many years of observation and research did the ancestors of the community find out the exact location of the comma between the rainy and dry seasons in this area?
I really can't think of it: the Taiwanese aborigines, who have always been considered as "a cold year", are so good at using calendars! It is also sufficient to see that the peasant calendar that has been around for thousands of years does have some subtleties.
A model of sustainable management
The ancestors of the Dawulong community who know the time, the self-control, and the heart of their lives, choose to ban hunting during the rainy season when everything is flourishing, the grass is flourishing, and the food chain is rich, so that wild animals can breathe, spread, and grow. In fact, it is the play and practice of Dazhi Dahui who is insatiable and sustainable. In Thomson’s graphic report, I was surprised to find that the residents of the Dawulong community built houses using bamboo, Suga hazel, and thatch, which are fast-growing grasses; as firewood, they also used Suga hazel and wilting Stick-based—This approach allows us to see that in order to protect the living space of wild animals, the residents of the Dawulong community can be said to be pitiful and pity for natural resources, and use it very conservatively!
Oh! With residents who are so good at life, they can have a good environment with beautiful scenery everywhere; and only residents who are so good at life can have a good environment to live in beautiful scenery everywhere!
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Ben Su on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 絕景!!!!道路破碎,開車不易。需來回涉水跳石前進,不適合有小孩同行。
Superb view!!! The road is broken and it is not easy to drive. Need to wading back and forth to jump off the rocks, not suitable for traveling with children.
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Y
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Yaling Yang on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 剛好在做工程
以至於河水混濁
Just doing engineering
So that the river is turbid
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胖
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胖胖 on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 小而美的瀑布,溯溪而上,景色三變
Small and beautiful waterfall, up the river, three changes in scenery
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蔡
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蔡榮基 on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 1871年英國攝影家約翰湯姆生在鹽桑坑溪上游溪谷拍下一張照片這張照片在他的中國攝影集中展出頻率很高而引人注意,照片的所在地就是白雲仙谷。
In 1871, the British photographer John Thomson took a picture in the upper valley of the salt mulberry creek. This photo was very high in the focus of his Chinese photography exhibition, and the location of the photo is Baiyunxian Valley.
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王
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王文昇 on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 隨處可見的蝴蝶,清澈的溪水,伴隨著美麗的風景,走到底部壯觀的瀑布,這裡是真祕境中的祕境,也希望不要太多人來此而破壞這裡所擁有的一切。
Butterflies can be seen everywhere, clear streams, accompanied by beautiful scenery, to the spectacular waterfall at the bottom, this is a secret place in the real secret, and I hope that too many people will come here to destroy everything that we have here.
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Nai-Yun ZHANG on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 要走一段路,旁邊有些山壁不是很穩固,感覺隨時有崩塌的可能,目前水算少,沿路上去青苔很多,應該再等水多的時候會比較好
I have to walk for a while, some of the mountain walls next to it are not very stable, and I feel that there is a possibility of collapse at any time. At present, there is little water, and there is a lot of moss along the road. It should be better when there is more water.
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許
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許斌 on Google
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 一般轎車開到最後停車的橋要有磨底盤的心理准備,下車走約一小時走到瀑布,一路都是平坦河床,沒有深潭,瀑布不高但很清幽。
Generally, the car should be mentally prepared to grind the chassis when driving to the bridge where it stops at the end. Get off the car and walk to the waterfall for about an hour. All the way is a flat riverbed without deep pools.
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